Diner 24 No More

Up until a few years ago, I never knew how integral diners were to American history. Apparently, the origins of the first diner can be traced back to 1858 when food was first served from a horse-drawn carriage in Rhode Island. But despite their pervasiveness in 2006, there was only one diner in my home town – The Cutchogue Diner. As much of a landmark the Cutchogue Diner is to my community, including some of its frequent patrons, there is nothing remarkable or palatable about it.

As such, I have generally associated diners as grease lovers' paradises, or a truck stop along an interstate. Still somewhat believing diner patrons should get clearance from their cardiologists before dinning, I have come to realize that diners are for many, a way of life, a neighborhood restaurant, or better yet, a place of social gathering. Having spent a significant amount of time in New Jersey recently, it also appears that diners may employ a large majority of the New Jersey workforce.

The last few years have afforded me a more personal experience with diners. There's the Halfmoon Diner in Halfmoon, New York, The Hampton Bays Diner, and more recently, Diner 24. Diner 24 has been one of my most favorite restaurants in New York City. There is nothing truck-stop about Diner 24, as it is situated in the heart of Chelsea, or the edge of the Meat-Packing District, if you prefer. Diner 24 is fabulously gay, trendy, loud and it's fare is retro comfo (retro comfort food). Although its patrons may be more Democratic then lets say, The Palm, Diner 24 is for me, a bit Hemingwayesque – it is my clean, well-lighted place. The only resemblance Diner 24 may have to a more traditional diner are the hours of operation. Open 24 hours, Diner 24 provides tables to patrons without a wait, even during the busy dinner hours.

The menu includes disco fries, a la cheese fries but with truffle brie and fine herbs, mac-n-cheese (with Jarlsburg and Vermont Cheddar cheese, of course), fish tacos and a variety of Chelsea-like adult beverages, including a strawberry basil mojito. Last night a few girlfriends and I went to Diner 24 for some retro comfo, drinks, girl-talk and lots of laughs. Although the aforementioned were obtained flawlessly, the experience was not what I expected it to be. The first sign that Diner 24 was no more was the menu. Although the menu items were the same, or so it seemed, the menu was stylistically different. It no longer resembled a diner menu. For starters, the menu was passively aggressively insulting. The dishes were broken down by regions of the world, as if I would not know that the fish tacos were prepared with a Latin American influence. Slightly agitated, I ordered the fish tacos hoping that the menu was not a sign of greater changes to come.

The fish tacos were so different than what I am used to savoring, craving, returning for, etc… The "original" Diner 24 fish tacos were made with a seared white fish, probably Cod or Monkfish, and served in a soft tortilla. Absolutely delicious. Last night's tacos claimed to be seared Monkfish, but by seared, the Chef meant deep-fried. Yes, the fish came deep fried, with all the wonder accoutrements, but instead of the soft tortilla, it came in a "crispy" (again, a la deep-fried) shell. Although I still devoured it, this new Diner 24 does require clearance from your cardiologist.

My friends and I still had a great time and our overall experience wasn't tainted by the stylistic or preparation changes, but I did leave with a sense of disappointment. Just when I was starting to understand the American diner phenomena, my one diner muse was taken away from me.

Until next time…